The nordby
The story
THE LAST TRIP
On August 31, 1899, he left Hamburg and set sail for the South Seas and New Zealand, which he joined in May 1900. The return was to be made to Liverpool in England, but he did not leave Auckland for there. return directly: he must first navigate towards Tahiti and Raiatea for a load of copra (the dried coconut pulp was already used to make coconut oil).
He made a short stop in Tahiti, where his cargo was estimated at more than 36,000 F on August 18, 1900 at Papeete: the ship was loaded with 111 tons of copra, 4 boxes and 19 packages of yellow copper, 14 barrels of wax. bee, 4 cotton balls, 5 boxes of broken pearls and 3 turtle scales.
But it still has to set sail for Raiatea, an important port at the end of the 19th century. At that time, there were more exchanges at the port of Uturoa than at that of Papeete, because Uturoa benefited from the status of a free port (goods leaving here are not subject to the same taxes as elsewhere).
In addition, the Oceania Trading Company (SCO), a German company from Hamburg, bought the Uturoa copra factory in 1876 and became one of the largest exporters. So this is where the last load will take place.
The shipwreck
The sale
The rest of the sailboat’s history is unique in maritime annals. The Nordby is sinking, of course, but all is not lost for everyone. The boat, its equipment, cargo and ship’s stores can still be sold at public auction.
The complete unloading takes place by order of the administrator of the Leeward Islands. Two days of sales will be enough to strip the boat of its identity. The richest trader of Uturoa will acquire the boat by outbidding 990 F, with two cases of biscuits and 400 kilos of corned beef as a bonus.
In total, the proceeds from the sale brought in 2,210 francs at the time. We are far from the 36,000 francs estimated at Papeete, but the shipowner will not achieve such a bad deal either: ten years earlier, the boat had cost him 90,000 crowns, but it was still insured for 80,000 crowns … be a good compensation!
Forgetting
Once these deals are done for everyone, the Nordby will slowly fade from collective memory … so much so that her name will not even be remembered (let alone the exact circumstances of her sinking).
For a long time, we dived on this wreck, calling it “Le Charbonnier”, in memory of the charcoal zest recovered at the beginning of the century. It was not clear where this wreck came from and the mystery of its history did not end until December 1996 when a local journalist, Jean-Louis, found his name in the archives of the notary of Raiatea.
And today ?
You put on your suit, your bottle is on your back, are you ready to join the Nordby? You jump into the water and around fifteen meters, you already see the ghostly shadow of the wreck, almost intact 120 years after its sinking … The hull and the stern are well preserved, two of the three masts are still in place, well visible.
You approach the hold, inhabited by numerous nudibranchs and groupers. The wooden deck has disappeared allowing light to enter the hull. This is where you will be able to explore while enjoying a magical stroll among the surgeonfish, coachmen, angelfish, two-banded bulls, red mullet, shrimp, black corals, mother-of-pearl, spondyla (brightly colored sponges) … From the inside, the blue is always visible so no claustrophobia possible!
This is when you realize that you are truly wandering through the bowels of a wreckage laden with history! Think back to all that has been carried inside over time, the many trips around the world the Nordby made when it was in its prime …
At 18 meters, an air pocket allows divers to talk to each other, but on the other hand we are careful not to breathe the stale air … Magic!
You continue your meetings: chickpea porcelain, spotted crabs, lion fish, scorpion fish … Anemones have fixed themselves on the metal, a moray eel passes … You notice the rudder still present.
Before leaving, take the time to admire the nudibranchs: around fifteen species have been recorded. But you have to keep an eye because these little things are only one to seven centimeters …
It’s almost the end of exploration diving. Your head is full of images (and the Go Pro that you took care to take with you!). It’s an experience you’ll never forget! Especially for the atmosphere: the discovery of a well-preserved ghost ship, in which you can enter, the water a little cloudy in this place, the rays of light which reinforce this strange atmosphere, nature which has regained its rights and accompany us throughout the visit… it would have been a shame not to experience that!
Practical information
Te Mara Nui Plongée
- diving accessible all year round depending on weather conditions
- minimum diving level 1
- price from 7000 F / person (59 €)
- booking at 87 72 60 19 or on the website
Te Mara Nui Plongée
